Bumsters in The Gambia:
'touts, fixers, chancers, gigolos, wheeler-dealers, informal
guides and guardian angels'
The Rough Guide to The Gambia, by Emma Gregg and Richard Trillo.
Bumster is a Gambian term that applies to just about any of
the above 'professionals' that a visitor might meet in the
small West African state. Most can be found hanging around
the hotels and beaches of the country, with plenty of interesting
ways to part you with your money. Tourists tend to give them
the big brush-off, either ignoring them or becoming extremely
exasperated with their presence, but some provide useful services.
Like it or not, you're going to meet a few if you visit, so
you might as well be prepared.
Background
The Gambia is a very poor country, where most people earn
the equivalent of a few dollars a day. Tourism is a big money-spinner,
providing over half the country's Gross Domestic Product,
but most of the earnings leave the country again very quickly
as the bigger hotels are owned by foreign companies. Undoubtedly,
the locals still benefit; despite low pay, they make relatively
good tips and by Gambian standards working in a hotel or driving
a taxi provides a decent income. When the dry season ends
in April, the hotels close and the tourism workers return
to their villages until the rains end in October.
Of course, as in all well-paid industries, there aren't enough
jobs to go around. Those that are not able to secure work
are still drawn to the resorts, providing alternative services
whether the tourists want them or not. Invariably male, these
are the bumsters. They can be quite persistent and persuasive,
and most believe they are providing a genuine and important
service, whether it be helping tourists find the best restaurant,
arranging trips and tours or selling cheap cigarettes on the
beach. Some bumsters could be described as small-time businessmen,
with portfolios of work, business cards and mobile phones.
A tourist will pay for a week's holiday about as much as a
Gambian earns in a year, so it's little wonder that everyone
wants to get business from the holidaymakers.
In fact, scams are quite rare, especially when one considers
the extent to which tourists can be ripped off by timeshare
salesmen in Europe. At worst, you might be severely irritated
by their presence; at best, you'll make a friend for life.
Many tourists, wary of being 'taken for a ride', avoid talking
to anyone outside their hotel, but do this and you'll be shutting
yourself off from having some great experiences.
Note that the word 'bumster' is rarely heard in the resorts
these days. In 2003, many bumsters were arrested in a big
crackdown, fuelled by a fear that their presence was giving
the country a bad name. Some were beaten in the streets, many
were detained, and a few were sent off to work in the fields
for a few months. The army maintain a low profile on the beaches,
and you'll notice many Gambians leaving the resorts at around
5pm, just before the evening patrols start. It's wise to avoid
calling anyone a bumster in the presence of Gambians, as it's
easy to cause offence.
Official Bumsters
A result of the 2003 crackdown was that a line was drawn
between those that could provide a genuine service and those
that couldn't. For example, juice and fruit sellers on the
beach must all take a basic food hygiene course and produce
a price list, so as long as you ask to see these you can be
confident of avoiding problems. There are also 'Official Tourist
Guides' (OTGs) and card-carrying bird guides, who can often
offer a better, more personalised experience than those you'd
find on hotel coach tours. Green tourist taxis also produce
a price list - though there is always a little room for negotiation,
especially on long trips - and their cars must take regular
safety tests1.
The officially sanctioned bumsters aren't really true bumsters;
they have fairly strict rules on how they're allowed to approach
people and must be able to prove that they can deliver what
they offer. All have buildings, shacks or desks on the street
that they trade from, and although they are allowed to talk
to passers-by, they are not allowed to stray too far or be
aggressive. This means that they frequently lose trade to
the less scrupulous 'real' bumsters, who will come up to you
anywhere. The concern is that if they do not get enough business,
they'll simply go back onto the street, increasing the bumster
problem, so go to these guys first.
The worst official bumsters are often uniformed; the police.
It's not uncommon for them to stop tourist taxis in order
to try to get a little pay. They'll search the car, check
the driver's documents, check your identification - always
carry your passport or identity card - and might even search
you. If you find yourself in this situation, don't be intimidated
- keep calm and insist that they write down the charge for
you to check with your embassy. Tell them that if it's confirmed
as genuine, you'll pay it, but if not, you will ask the embassy
to take it further. If you keep talking and don't back down,
they will let you go without you having to pay an unofficial
'fine'.
Chat Up Lines
If you want to get out and see more of The Gambia than your
hotel pool and the beach, you'll probably want to meet Gambians
at some point. It's not always easy to tell who's a bumster
and who's an interested local, because Gambians are very chatty
people. Conversation between Gambians, or between Gambians
and tourists, initially always consists of the same pattern:
Greeting. Just a hello, or, if you're feeling clever, a Mandinka
salaam maaleekum or Wolof nakam.
The Present. How are you? How's the holiday? How is your family?
Wider World. Where are you from? What do you do? Is this your
first time here2? Have you been to Africa before?
Down To Business. Now let's talk about how much you're going
to pay for these sandals, what you want to drink or where
we're going in this taxi.
In the resorts, you might get a truncated version of this,
as people who regularly deal with tourists know they're less
likely to be chatty. The point is, unless you really don't
want to talk, don't automatically presume that if someone
asks where you're from that they're a bumster. People who
really do just want a chat will approach you in exactly the
same way as a bumster would.
Fortunately, word has got around the bumsters that there
are a few select lines that are guaranteed to raise at least
a smile. You'll begin to recognise them within a day or two,
but here are a few you'll hear from the start:
It's nice to be nice!
The more you smile, the browner you get!
Welcome to the Smiling Coast!
I saw you in the hotel last night... (and sometimes) I was
with the band.
If you hear one of these lines, it must be stressed that you're
not about to be ripped off. It just means you are likely to
be offered a chance to part with your cash very soon!
Scams
Unfortunately, there are a few scams around to be aware of.
Some are obvious, some less so, and they change all the time.
Be careful of being sucked into one of the following situations:
'My wife has just had a baby' or 'I've just got married'.
You'll be asked for money for transport home, or asked to
donate to a made-up celebration.
A Gambian follows you along the beach or through town, pointing
things out because 'I want to practise my English' or just
'wants to show you around'. It's very easy to allow them to
do this, and receive a demand for a 'tip' for guiding services
at the end. You may also be told that it's 'good to have a
friend' in a particular part of town, and that it would be
better if he accompanied you; don't be tempted to take up
the offer, as The Gambia is a very safe country for tourists,
and the demand for money at the end could be more threatening
than anything else you come across.
'I'm collecting for the slave descendants in my village'.
Yes, the bumster and his family.
You get 'given' a piece of generic jewellery or a necklace,
which the bumster claims will stop you from getting hassled
by touts and/or symbolises the union of your countries/races.
You'll be expected to contribute to a collection at the end,
even if they catch you an hour or two later! You may even
be told that it is an insult to refuse, but it isn't.
'I was in the band in your hotel last night and we broke
a drum skin'...of course, he needs money to replace it - even
though the guy wasn't in your hotel or isn't even in a band.
As you approach a supermarket, a bumster warns you about
how expensive it is in there. The bitiko (a sort of tiny corner
shop) is much cheaper, so he takes you there, you get overcharged
and he splits the excess with the owner. A similar scam involves
the tourist buying baby food or grain as a gift and paying
an over-inflated price for it.
Use your common sense, and don't part with any money unless
you're happy to pay for what you're getting.
Avoiding Bumsters
The boys are waiting outside, and they know it's your first
night in town...
- Slightly paranoid hotel literature.
It must be stressed that it is unlikely that you'll get ripped
off for any significant amount, but highly likely that you'll
meet some great people. The hotels tend to overstate the extent
of the bumster problem, as the more you stay in your hotel,
the more you spend there - particularly on lucrative tours
- and the ubiquitous 'welcome meeting' will emphasise how
wary you should be. Don't let this stop you from the genuinely
friendly and accommodating Gambians; make your own decision
about the bumsters. You might find the attention off-putting,
and some tourists do find it unbearable, swearing never to
return, but many find a genuine affinity with at least some
of the locals.
The hotel advice is usually to claim you're going to meet
someone, but this rarely works as most touts know who else
is around - and if it's your first night, it will show anyway.
Getting angry doesn't work, either - stay calm but be firm.
If you feel harassed, the best thing to do is simply to play
on Gambian social etiquette. It is considered very rude in
Gambian society to barge into conversations unannounced, so
reminding the bumster that you didn't 'invite' him to join
you at least puts him on the back foot or gets rid of him
completely. Likewise, you won't get harassed if you're eating
a meal, as dinner is a private, family occasion, and Gambians
feel uncomfortable pestering at mealtimes. If you feel you're
being strung along and start to feel uncomfortable, head for
a bar and order a drink or go into a shop (making it clear
that you're not with the Gambian that followed you in) - he'll
soon be asked to leave.
Finally, remember that bumsters are very defensive of 'their'
customers. If you use a taxi driver, juice-seller or bar tout's
services regularly, don't be afraid to drop their name into
conversation if you're getting unsolicited attention, and
you'll probably be left alone. Get to know them really well,
and you might get escorted back to your hotel, too. You might
be asked for an old T-shirt or a few dalasis at the end of
your stay, but it'll probably be the best deal you do on holiday.
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